Living in Aspen

The conditions that set Aspen apart from other ski towns is that Aspen has its origins in nature and history. 

The valley is well-watered and relatively low-elevation, making it especially productive and livable, even though it is surrounded by some of the highest and most beautiful mountains in the Rockies. 

These factors conspired to keep Aspen alive after the Silver Boom died. 

By the time the first ski runs were developed in the late 1930's, the town already had a sixty-year-old history enriched with its surroundings, historic buildings and character, which attracted its later residents. 

Compounding these advantages, visionary leadership in the 1940's and 1950's made Aspen an enclave of high quality art, science and culture.

During the last several decades, other ski towns that were made from scratch lacked Aspen's cultural dimensions. 

These factors appealed to an intellectual, affluent, famous, and powerful set of people who have joined and often displaced the existing Aspen community. 

The result is an extraordinary citizenry; thoughtful, vocal, accustomed to being in charge, and contentious in ways only possible when the stakes are primarily about ineffable things like charm and character! 

Nevertheless, the attractiveness of the lifestyle has created continuous growth and subjected Aspen to a relentlessly inflationary, price-insensitive demand for housing since the 1960's. 

The lack of housing for persons who wish to live in Aspen has created a commuter society; the overflow of newcomers has forced these people to live in the towns northwest of Aspen such as Snowmass Village, Old Snowmass, Basalt, Carbondale, Red Stone, Marble, Glenwood Springs, New Castle, Silt, Rifle and Parachute.

Comparing Aspen To Other Western Resort Towns

In Wyoming's Jackson Hole, the average cost of a new home in 2007 was $555,000, and in Aspen it was $3.7 million.

• Utah's Summit County (Park City) was the second fastest growing in the U.S. during the first half of the 1990's, but the 22,000 residents there have real estate valued at only $3.4 billion, while Pitkin County, with just 14,000 people, has real estate valued at $6.6 billion.
• Per capita assessed valuation in Pitkin County is $64,000; twice that in Eagle County; three times that in Park City; and seven times as great in Garfield County.
• Per capita income of Pitkin County residents (not counting the even wealthier second home owners) is 168% of the national average.
• Total annual municipal and county government expenditures in Moab and Grand County, Utah (with 10,000 residents and 3 million annual visitors) are $9 million; in Aspen, Snowmass and Pitkin County the totals are $64 million.

These trends are unlikely to abate soon, because 80 million American baby-boomers are beginning to reach their late 50's, and they are inheriting some $10 trillion. 

The most affluent ones will continue to search out places like Aspen and Snowmass, increasing the pressure to turn the upper end of the valley into an exclusive club served by workers living ever farther down the ever more expensive and stratified commuter-shed. 

Support for these predictions is apparent in population figures, which indicate that Pitkin County is growing, and those numbers aren't coming as largely from Aspen.

Of the towns located "down-valley" from Aspen, Glenwood Springs serves as the health care, education and shopping center of the Roaring Fork Valley. 

The area from Glenwood Springs to Old Snowmass provides most of the housing, while Aspen and Snowmass offer jobs, recreation, dining and the arts.

Altogether, most residents seem to find the availability of jobs and proximity to the cultural amenities in Aspen worth the commute; but that balance can be tipped as the driving and parking become more difficult. 

As the cost of living continues to rise, and as the densely crowded bedroom communities begin to experience higher taxes, urban crime, racial and ethnic tensions arise. 

The increasing numbers of commuters living far down the Colorado River Valley are symptomatic of the extremely stratified quality of life in the local economy, and they present new problems for extending public transit, day-care, and other social services.

Of these issues, only public transit has effectively been addressed, and as with the affordable housing program and growth management, The Roaring Fork Transit Authority is showing signs of being overtaken by the pace and regional scale of development. 

RFTA represents an unparalleled community commitment to public transportation. 

Today, the RFTA provides a wide range of transit services to more than 3 million annual riders throughout the whole Roaring Fork Valley and Rifle. 

Among other resort towns, only Park City offers substantial public transportation, and that service is simply a shuttle from the parking lots to the ski lifts, serving about 1 million annual riders.

Meanwhile, other social dimensions of displacement are relatively new developments that have hardly been addressed at all. 

Affordable housing and the needs of commuters are complementary problems: where the one issue involves retaining a sense of community by keeping workers near their jobs, the other considers the impacts on adjacent communities once workers have cashed-out or been forced to relocate. 

Growing problems, exemplified by the ethnic issues (the Latino community now makes up a significantly large portion of the Roaring Fork Valley population), indicate that leaders should focus on how to help maintain a decent quality of life for workers who must leave their children to commute several hours to modestly compensated work in the resort economy. 

The symbolic relationship between that economy and its work force demands that Aspen respond to the needs of down-valley commuters with the same energy and vision that have gone into the affordable housing program. 

Aspen, CO, is best know as an expensive ski resort, but the town and surrounding area in the summer offers visitors and residents beautiful scenery and a wide variety of opportunities for outdoor recreation. Cultural activities are also described.

When snow's on the ground, it's a chichi ski town. But when it's not, and it's hot, Aspen returns to its small-town self for a season of simple outdoor and cultural pleasures.

I came for the winter but stayed for the summers" tops the list of cliches about Aspen--and describes my own experience to a T.I can't think of anything that is missing here in summer, except perhaps for ocean breezes.

 This season is precious in our mountain town because it is too good and too short. Just think about the blissful freedom of summer camp.

What separates summer in Aspen from any other place on Earth is the healthy seesaw between challenging the brain and the body.

Where else can you hike, bike, rope, ride, canoe, kayak, fish, rappel, golf, herd cows, hunt mushrooms, Rollerblade, paraglide or just dunk your toes in the river; and then: hear big-time folks talk about quarks, play a quartet, rivet you with a riff or political dish?

In a local's mind, summer begins spiritually with the first green leaf (sometimes as early as the beginning of May!) and semiofficially in early June with the International Design Conference in Aspen (this year, from June 3 to 6; the theme is sports design), followed by the Food & Wine Magazine Classic at Aspen June 12 to 14; a giant winetasting with cooking classes featuring such masters as Jacques Pepin).

The season closes with mustard-colored foliage and Filmfest at the end of September. Between the times the leaves change, the entire Roaring Fork Valley, from Aspen "down" to Glenwood Springs (about forty-five minutes away), opens up, and the towns along the way, from nearby Snowmass to Basalt, El Jebel and Carbondale (loosely referred to as "Down Valley"), feature different pleasures.

Here's my chockablock compendium of what I, a full-time (and blessed to be so) Aspen resident, would suggest you consider--at the risk of being highly personal and omitting by taste or by chance, other wonderful things.

Do check the local papers and Aspen magazine for the latest highlights and insights.

The Sublime Outdoors

Summer days in Aspen (hot and dry) may begin with activities starting as early as 7 a.m. and end with the last cast of the rod near 9 p.m. (cold-nose nights). For all of the following outdoor pursuits, take into consideration: the buddy system, the altitude (Aspen sits at almost 8,000 feet), midday heat (start long hikes early), your fitness level (there is something for everyone). Dress in layers. For hiking shoes, go for big treads and think comfy (I like Tecnicas).

Bring rain gear (afternoon showers), sunscreen (for the back of your neck too), a hat, water, a map, a knife, sunglasses (with UV protection) and munchies.

For serious munchies. i.e. picnics and lunches, stock up at The Butcher's Block, Crowley & Greenberg's East End Deli or Gourmet-To-Go.

HIKING

Go for is long as you feel comfortable--this is your vacation. Take time to look at the wildflowers (to know what you're seeing, bring along Tundra Publications' Rock), Mountain Wildflowers, by Kent and Donna Dannen). I recommend three reference books with great details, directions and descriptions: Aspen Snowmass Trails (WHO Press), by Warren Ohlrich; The Aspen Dayhiker (Brush Creek Books), by Ruth and Peter Frey; and Aspen on Foot (Brush Creek Books), which includes fishing, by Ruth Frey. My hiking picks: The Rio Grande Trail--in town; great first day out; paved and unpaved sections; benches too. Weller Lake--short destination through "magical forest" close to town. Ditto the Difficult Trail, which isn't difficult, only longer. Hunter Creek--in-town access; opens into lovely meadows. Conundrum Creek--narrow valley, forest and meadows; whole day (one way) to the hot springs. American Lake and Cathedral Lake--both long, twisty, steep and beautiful. I love Grizzly Lake for the snowfield at the end. Take your car (check permissible times With the forest service) or ride the bus up to the Maroon Bells and inhale the quiet, the majesty and the serenity of Maroon Lake and Aspen's most famous peaks. Don't miss the Silver Queen gondola ride up Aspen Mountain; have lunch at the Sundeck Restaurant; walk around. I like to drive up to the Punch Bowl (ten minutes from town toward Independence Pass), take a sandwich, lean against a tree, and watch daredevil kids jump off rocks into the water. Also check out: Lost Man Loop, Crater Lake. Down in Glenwood, try Hanging Lake: moderate; ends at a Japanese-feeling lake.

FISHING

This is catch-and-release, Gold Medal trout country--the rainbow, the cutthroat and the brown trout all inhabit the Roaring Fork and the Fryingpan rivers. I often go with Taylor Creek Fly Shop in Basalt. That means a guide with fishing lore and expertise (you need know nuthin'), a cooler of cold drinks, waders and someone to tie my flies. Often I just stand in the river and enjoy the scenery and the gentle nudge of the current.

GOLF

I take lessons at The Snowmass Lodge & Club and delight in the idea that the driving range is where kids sled in winter. The private Maroon Creek Club has a swell new clubhouse and holes with great mountain views. Aspen's public course has similar scenics. Down Valley: Jack Nicklaus and his son Jack II designed the course at private Aspen Glen. Opening this spring: River Valley Ranch Golf Club (public, in Carbondale). This summer/fall: Roaring Fork Club (private, in Basalt). Ask your hotel about arrangements.

HORSEBACK RIDING

Novices can take lunch rides through pine and aspen groves up to the Maroon Bells with the T-Lazy Seven Guest & Horse Ranch, for example. I fit the above description (major novice) and, with Capitol Peak Outfitters, overnighted, no less. Our guides knew the wildflowers and the mountains, and turned a mean flapjack. Real wilderness. Mystical and timeless. Get a fleece pad for the saddle (sore-muscle city). Reliable friends also recommend Snowmass Falls Outfitters. To observe real cowboy action go to nearby Snowmass Village Rodeo on Wednesday and Saturday nights.

BIKING

Biking is a great way to get around town--or farther afield. Rent and explore the environs with a road bike (paved surfaces) or mountain bike (ruts, rocks, dirt roads). I ride the trail from Aspen to Basalt (see "Down Valley"), or up to the Bells, Ashcroft or Independence Pass 'til I drop. On the last route, stop anywhere along the North Star Preserve; it's just pretty. For reference: Cafe Cycling, Aspen to Glenwood Springs (Brush Creek Books), by Ruth Frey.

The Mind: Intellectual Jive

Since its founding in 1950, The Aspen Institute has been a respected discussion forum for world and corporate leaders in every arena. While attending its famous executive seminars (private), such speakers as Senator Bob Dole participate in the free, summer-long community lecture series. The Aspen Center for Physics, where Nobel laureates mix with graduate students, also has free public summer lectures. The Aspen Art Museum, in a historic brick building, has rotating exhibitions on the visual arts. Some are local; others are from major museums like New York's Metropolitan. The Dance Aspen Summer Festival and School features styles from classical to jazz and will present the Martha Graham Dance Company, the Miami City Ballet, the Parsons Dance Company and La Tania (flamenco dance). Anderson Ranch Arts Center in Snowmass Village, a sophisticated arts and crafts "School" housed in rambling buildings, offers one- to three-week courses for grownups and children. Absolutely absorbing. Kids pound, drill and saw to make twig furniture. Other classes: ceramics, woodworking, photography, figure drawing and more. Beginner to expert classes. Lectures, exhibitions. Theatre in the Park presents several plays a season. Filmfest, the community's sweetheart because, I submit, it's one of our last truly local, cozy, small-town affairs, closes the summer with five to six days of independent films, with filmmakers (very accessible) in town for postfilm Q and A (always personal and great) and organized discussions, over coffee.

Music, Music, Music

The backbone (and revered tradition) of summer since its founding here in 1949, the Aspen Music Festival and School includes a music school, master classes open to the public, and concerts every day (some afternoon, some evening) this year from June 18 to August 16 in the Bayer-Benedict Tent and the spectacular underground Hams Concert Hall. Sunday concerts at 4 P.M. are a local ritual. Bring a picnic and sit on the grass. Check open-rehearsal schedules, too. Past guests have included Itzhak Perlman, Misha Dichter. Summer '98 features: Sarah Chang, Nadja Salerno-Sonnenberg, Yefim Bronfman. For the four-evening June gig (18th-21st) and the Labor Day weekend happening (September 4-7; crowds of 4,000-plus) put on by Janus Jazz Aspen at Snowmass, hepcats jam the festival grounds and tent. Past headliners: Ray Charles, Santana, Tony Bennett, Patti LaBelle. This June: B.B. King, as well as Wynton Marsalis and the Lincoln Center Jazz Band. Also, free concerts Thursdays (jazz and blues, funk and reggae) at Snowmass Village's Fanny Hill. Exceptional: The Thelonious Monk Institute Jazz Colony (July 27-August 7). Students taught by such master teachers as Herbie Hancock, Branford Marsalis, Billy Taylor, Wayne Shorter, Ray Brown--and this year, Rosemary Clooney--who, I'm thrilled to say, do concerts in Snowmass Village's intimate Silvertree Hotel Cabaret Room (the Rocky Mountains' "Blue Note").

Dining and Beyond

Aspen restaurants cover all bases--chic, funky, homey and snooty. "B," "L" and "D" indicate breakfast, lunch and dinner. "From" is shorthand for "entrees start at" and refers to dinner prices (unless no dinner is served--in which case we've listed lunch prices). Some serve "D" only (and few serve any "D" after 10:30 P.M.). Beer fans, don't forget to ask for Colorado's famous microbrews And no place requires a coat or tie--thank heavens. Main Street Bakery & Cafe: A cozy place that's yums for B, L or D. I love the garden. Breakfast faves: Outrageous pastries, like the 49er; multigrain porridge; overflowing omelets. Pot roast to pastas. From $9. Poppycocks: Pink walls, great counter, outstanding macadamia-nut oatmeal pancakes. B ('til 3 P.M.), L; from $5. Boogie's Diner: Welcome to pink banquettes, Elvis nostalgia and the best milk shakes, meat loaf, turkey rice soup. L, D; from $5. Boogie's Cafe: Coffees, pastries. B, L, D. Rusty's Hickory House: Very no-frills. BEST ribs in town. B, L, D; from $11. Acme Bar & Grill: The big plus--late-night menu 'til midnight. L, D; from $8. Cache Cache: Mediterranean and wonderful. Patio. Love the seafood/saffron risotto cake, grilled chicken over onion confiture, wild-mushroom ragout. D; from $14. Ajax Tavern: Neat patio looking up toward Aspen Mountain. Pubby indoors. Best uptown" cheeseburger. Marinated lamb, mascarpone ravioli, warm peach crisp. L, D; from $12. Pinons: An elegant, quiet pleasure. Straightforward, perfectly seasoned food. Seared loin of veal, sesame-crusted ahi (great wasabi mashed potatoes), chocolate bread pudding. D; from $22. Pacifica Seafood Brasserie: White tile. Imaginative seafood. Fun bar. ("Seafood bar menu" available late.) Try coconut ceviche, grilled anything. L, D; from $14. Mirabella: Airy interior, extensive Mediterranean menu, dishes such as fattoush (Syrian chopped salad), paella Valenciana. D; from $12.50. The Little Nell: Aspen's prettiest outdoor dining is here, by the pool. Big local lunch place. Inside, serene; new wine room. Inspired American Alpine cooking: mustard-crusted trout, chilled lobster, scallop and oyster martini. B, L, D; from $26. Trattoria Farfalla: Cozy room, inviting bar. Impeccable pastas, pizzas. Chicken with capers and lemon. D; from $10. Campo de Fiori: Tiny, loud, great wall paintings. People swear by it. D; from $10. spaghetti alla Bolognese. D; from $12. J-Bar at the Hotel Jerome: Great big ole' bar, tin ceiling. Best chicken Caesar. Open 'til Carnevale: Fresco-y, festive and really good. Love eating at the bar on quiet weeknights: spinach salad with Gorgonzola; trout; 3 for L. Dinner in the Jerome's Century Room: Victorian decor and 3-star style. From $24. Kenichi: Definite buzz. Salmon baked in bamboo, crab cakes with yellow saffron sauce. 1); from $15. Renaissance: Seriously good. Extensive, delish menu. D; from $28. I like its relaxed, funky R Bistro upstairs (can order from either menu). Burmese chicken curry; porkchops with apricot confit. D; from $14. Baang Cafe & Bar: Burnt-orange interior, copper tabletops. Very "downtown." Imaginative eats, family-style: grilled ruby prawns, ginger lobster, stir-fried sesame citrus noodles. D; from $20. Caffe Amici: Great breakfasts, With opera music to boot. Very casual. B, L, D; from $11. Howling Wolf-Bohemian. Late-night music, poetry, politics. Organic veggies, free-range meats. Pad thai, Indian lemon coriander chicken. B, L, D; from $11. L'Hostaria: If nothing else, go for the town's only carpaccio bar. Everything from seared tuna to duck breast. D; from $9.50. Matsuhisa: Underground, streamlined, voluminous but warm interior. Plus, simply wonderful food. Signature dishes: squid pasta, mixed-mushroom Toban-Yaki, variations of sashimi. Sake bar. L, D; from $23. Mezzaluna: Great outdoor lunch spot. Simple pizzas and pastas. L, D; from $10. Poppies Bistro Cafe: Great bar, tiny, dark. D; from $19.50. Wabi Sabi: Lovely patio, Pacific-rim cuisine. Vietnamese summer roll, coconut crab cakes, wok-seared shrimp with lemon grass. D; from $10. Syzygy: Has a wall waterfall and unusual taste hybrids. Super Black Angus fillet. Mushroom ravioli with truffles. D; from $19. Jimmy's, An American Restaurant & Bar: Great terrace, American cuisine. Crab cakes, et al. D; from $15. Takah Sushi: Calm and GOOD. Whole tempura fish, mollusks in saffron/miso broth. Dip calamari and watercress in Thai sauce. I like the booths. D; from $12. Little Annie's Eating House: Satisfy the urge for chicken-fried steak, gooey desserts. Homey and local. L, D; from $7. La Cocina: Aspen old-timers' preferred Mexican joint. D; from $12. Caribou Club: Irreproachably delicious. Check out wine-cellar dining. Cushy living room, active bar, a whiskey-tasting room, pretty red dining room. Dancing. Chili-rubbed lamb, beer-batter onion rings, Thai vegetable roll and ... banana splits. D; from $22. (Private club, but inquire about temporary memberships.) Woody Creek Tavern: An Aspen institution, twelve minutes from town. Hunter Thompson territory. Unmanicured fun. Burgers, billiards, bikers. L, D; from $7.50. Pine Creek Cookhouse: Drive (twenty-five minutes) or bike to this favorite eatery tucked into the mountains; Views galore. Great deck. Salads, sandwiches, soups, sauteed elk, veal chops. L, D; from $25. Il Poggio: When in Snowmass. Tasty pastas, chicken wrapped in pancetta. Front room warm and woody. D; from $13. CAFES: Cafe Ink! and Zele Cafe: Best coffees, lattes, smoothies, teas, muffins, etc. Outdoor seating is hip at Zele. Cafe ink! open from 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Zele, from 7 a.m. to midnight. Paradise Bakery: Central, downtown spot for cookies, muffins, lemonade; open 6:30 a.m. to midnight. AFTER HOURS: Shooter's Saloon: Smoky, two-step-dancin' Western ban Caribou Club (see above). Cigar Bar: Caramel-colored den, unique chairs; puffer's heaven. Or shoot pool at Aspen Billiards 'til 2 a.m. Freedom: Videos, disco, Euro.

Shopping Sprees

Aspen has everything from Banana Republic to Bulgari, including Chanel, Dior, DKNY, Eddie Bauer, Fendi, The Gap, Kenneth Cole, Louis Vuitton, Polo Ralph Lauren, Porsche Design, Roots Canada. The short list of my unusual faves: Ute Mountaineer: Best hiking, camping, outdoor sportswear and equipment; knowledgeable staff Mountains & Streams: Lots of stylish sports/outdoor clothes. McHugh Antiques: 80 percent French, sophisticated-rustic, lovely Venetian glass, pillows. The Rachael Collection: Glassworks; look for the small stuff. C.B. Paws: Doggy bagels, cat caviar, Burberrys raincoats for Fido. Boogie's: 4,000-odd pairs of jeans, from Versace to used Levis, plus jeans accouterments, boots, etc. Zona West: Unusual and spirited pottery, soaps, furniture. Creations: Out-of-the-ordinary writing paper, cards. Skin Therapy Clinic: Expert skincare. Great facials, peels, waxing, etc. Products, too. Art of Optiks: Optimum In knowledge and selections of glasses. Amen Wardy Home: Candy store for table decor. Spirited and unusual stuff. Lizs Linens: Small but cool selection of bed linens. Freudian Slip: Great underwear and robes. Ozzies Shoes: The best sporty/snowy-weather shoes. BloomingBirds: For fancy footwear. Geraniums 'n Sunshine: FUN. Great kids' stuff Bakelite jewelry, offbeat coats, sweaters, ceramics. Omnibus Gallery: Quality posters, from Toulouse-Lautrec to Cassandre. Graphics and oils. McDonough's: High-end ski duds, real classics. Stefan Kaelin: Traditional tennis, golf and skiwear. Olivia Lee: Fancy uptown lingerie. Christopher Walling at jewels of Aspen: Original twists on a classic look (especially in choice of stones). Curious George Collectibles: Outrageous collection of western gear and memorabilia. Isberian Rug Company: Finest quality rugs galore, from Persian to Navajo (for Moroccan rugs: Morocco). Michael Robinson Collections: Classy and original. Custom (some hand-embroidered) shearling jackets, vests, etc. Pitkin County Dry Goods: Upscale general store for clothing. True North: Color-coordinated layering system, from sweaters to parkas. P.E. 101: Incomparable for relaxed sweaters, T-shirts, leggings, cozy jackets. Best bets for belts: H.B. Ltd. or A. Hykes Studio (custom-made buckles, etc., right III the shop). Manrico Cashmere and Cashmere Aspen: My downfalls. Explore Booksellers and Coffeeshop: A jewel for offbeat and mainstream reads, with foreign tides, newspapers and magazines. Plus great soups, pastries, light fare, teas, etc., upstairs. Open late. Fine-arts galleries: Baldwin Gallery. SERIOUS collectors of contemporary art beeline to this 7,500-square-foot space showing that world's top artists (Eric Fischl, Louise Nevelson, Robert Mapplethorpe and Jennifer Bartlett). Joel Soroka: Vintage photography. Susan Duval: Dale Chihuly to Montana landscapists; willow rocking chairs to Venice Beach conceptual art. Shaw: Antique Native American art. David Floria in Woody Creek: Contemporary, folk, nonabstract art "with a spirit to it." Other galleries to browse: Spotted Horse--offbeat. E.S. Lawrence--bronze sculptures, Impressionist paintings.

Down Valley

There's no denying Aspen's trendy/glitzy Beverly Hills side. But although development is coming, "Down Valley"--the stretch between Aspen and Glenwood Springs--still feels rural and small-town. For me, the wilderness and Down Valley balance Aspen's name-brand profile. Prettiest route down valley: Take Highway 82 past Snowmass down to Watson Divide Road; turn left. When road ends, turn right onto Snowmass Creek Road and follow it past several ranches. At the turn, go right, staying on Snowmass Creek Road, until you get back to 82. Turn left onto 82; follow signs to Basalt. BASALT: Twenty-five minutes northwest of Aspen. Old railroad town; still has 19th-century pace and look with a short main street. I like the nonresort ambiance. Visit Sally Harvey Fine Arts and the Basalt Gallery. Rainbow Grill: Primo deck on the Fryingpan River. Daylight prettiest. From $7.95. Two Rivers Cafe: Coffee shop, plain (decor and food). I love breakfast here. Cafe Bernard: Homemade everything--from farmers' eggs at breakfast to sauteed calamari at supper. And Bernard is ever-present. B, L, D: from $12.95. Taqueria el Nopal: A 7-foot-wide "hallway" that serves fresh Mexican (not Tex-Mex) food. Ceviche, pork tacos. Tacos from $1.50; specials from $3.50. The Ranch Salon Day Spa: Body and face renewals in a room right on the river. Intertesting products. Grana Bread Co. in Basalt Trade Center--simply the best focaccia, panini picnic bread, et al. in the valley. CARBONDALE: Thirty-five minutes from Aspen. Take scenic back way, turn left at Catherine Store off Highway 82. Ultimate mountain fair the last weekend in July. Visit: A Country Affair for Nancy's cookies and her great taste in American furniture; the Great Camp Collection; Suzanne Wallace Mears Gallery/Studio. Also, Jose Pena's: Nontourist Mexican food, wonderfully loud music. Combo platters from $9.25. Trattoria Roma: Boisterous, cheery, super food. Penne with pheasant sausage, ossobuco. Worth the trip. Lunches served on outside deck. L, D; from $7. GLENWOOD SPRINGS: Home of famous Yampah Hot Springs Vapor Caves. Sit and sweat in the caves; follow up with a massage or facial. Great salads afterward at Daily Bread Cafe. B, L; from $4.50.

Hanging Your Hat

The Little Nell: A mountain version of New York's Carlyle and the Beverly Hills Hotel. Overstuffed, cushy, active lobby and bar scene (jazz at night). Dynamite pool area. Doubles from $275, suites from $575; (888) 843-6355. The Hotel Jerome: Grande dame Victorian completely restored to its original 1889 glamour, plus Jacuzzis, modern lines, two-line phones. Cognacs in the hush-hush library. Doubles from $295; suites from $595; (800) 331-7213. The Sardy House: Homey and tony; blond-wood rooms with white linens. Reception/sitting area. Doubles from $175; suites from $350; (800) 321-3457. The St. Regis Aspen: Large, with many amenities. A Ritz-Carlton until last summer; still finding an identity Doubles from $329; suites from $449; (800) 325-3589.

Finally, find yourself a real estate agent, like the rest of us did, get yourself a dream house--and settle in.