Aspen Skiing

         Aspen Mountain (a.k.a. Ajax)

• Base elevation:  7,945 ft./2,422 m.
• Summit elevation:  11,212 ft./3,417m.
• Vertical rise:  3,267 ft./996 m.
• Terrain:  673 acres/270 hectares
• Best known for:  great location in the center of Aspen - Ski down for lunch and shopping. Aspen Mountain, the flagship mountain of the Aspen/Snowmass resort comlex, offers excellent intermediate to expert terrain that includes steep and bump runs.
  
  Aspen Highlands
• Base elevation:  8,040 ft./2,451 m.
• Summit elevation:  11,675 ft./3,559 m.
• Vertical rise:  3,635 ft./1,108 m.
• Terrain:  790 acres/320 hectares
• Best known for:  Locals' favorite mountain for expert and adventure terrain. The new Highlands Base Village features expanded retail, lodging, and food and beverage operations.
  
  Buttermilk
• Base elevation:  7,870 ft./2,399 m.
• Summit elevation:  9,900 ft./3,018 m.
• Vertical rise:  2,030 ft./619 m.
• Terrain:  427 acres/173 hectares, Boardercross course.
• Uncrowded slopes:  On average, 3.7 people per acre / 8 people per hectare.
• Best known for:  Being one of the best learning/teaching mountains in the world, terrain park and halfpipe for advanced skiers and snowboarders.
  
  Snowmass
• Base elevation:  8,104 ft./2,399 m.
• Summit elevation:  12,510 ft./3,813 m.
• Vertical rise:  4,406 ft./1,343 m.
• Terrain:  3,010 acres/1,218 hectares
• Best known for:  A family-friendly area with long, groomed cruising runs, snowbarders' haven with a Super Dragon halfpipe and acres of terrain-park riding.

``Parking Lot Full.''

Wait a minute. This didn't make any sense. A heavy snow was falling into a stiff wind. It was coming down sideways, in fact. Out in the teeth of the storm, it was miserably uncomfortable.

Besides, that hip-talking guy on the local TV channel had said this morning that there was certain to be good powder skiing tomorrow. Around noon. He looked right into the camera's eye and said that very thing.

Maybe the guy should have winked.

Because the parking lot at Aspen Highlands was indeed jammed during that recent midweek blizzard. The vehicles were well-worn and mud-encrusted: contractors' trucks, merchants' 4-by-4s with back seats piled with stock, dented old Japanese stuff that could belong only to waiters.

Locals. All playing hooky from work - with permission - because there was 3 inches of new powder on the ground and these conditions simply wouldn't wait. The tourists would be tucked away in their accommodations, huddled around fireplaces, waiting for a break in the weather.

The insiders knew: This was a great time to head out to a lesser-known area like Highlands to revel in virgin snow on runs that were sure to be all but deserted.

Aspen has a well-earned reputation for being the winter playground of Hollywood glitterati and corporate elite - people of means who feel a getaway here confers on them some special stature. Celebrity sightings are as common as wildlife reports at other ski areas. (``Saw an elk crossing Stagecoach Road.'' ``Saw Goldie Hawn having a glass of wine in the bar at the Snowmass Lodge and Club.'')

But Aspen is also an area of phenomenally good skiing. That's how it transformed from a silver-mining ghost town into a premier resort destination just after World War II. It features four very different mountains, lined up like sentries deep in the Roaring Fork Valley of central Colorado.

And those who reside and work here - in the upper-middle-class homes of Snowmass Village or in the down-valley settlements of Basalt and Glenwood Springs - know her secrets: How to avoid the crowds. How to seize the best skiing conditions. And, most important of all, how to do so without suffering a raging hemorrhage to your bank account.

Theirs is a subculture. Here is a 10-step guide to it:

Pristine conditions

The dream of every skier is to be the first one down the mountain the morning after an overnight snowfall. Or, barring that, to be the first one down a freshly groomed run.

Aspen has a program called First Tracks, but it is not widely publicized. Early each morning, just before the lifts open on Aspen Mountain, six pre-registered skiers ride the gondola to the top with two mountain ambassadors and one instructor. Then the group skis - under control - down a run selected by the Ski Patrol.

It's free. If your skiing ability is strong-intermediate or better, all you have to do is sign up. But here's the catch. A couple of weeks ago, the morning after a robust evening storm, a ski concierge at the base of Aspen Mountain produced the registration book from beneath her counter and flipped to the next available opening. It was nine days away.

Visitors who get wind of this program during their stay often have to leave before they can avail themselves of it. Locals know better.

Signing up before you leave home is as simple as a phone call: (970) 920-0755.

Off the beaten track

Aspen Mountain is a natural lure for tourists. That's where the gondola is. That's where the Little Nell hotel has its ski-in, ski-out side door. That's where, the locals have noticed with a smirk, some celebs pose for pictures before slipping off to Buttermilk Mountain to wobble down the beginner slopes.

A less-congested alternative is Aspen Highlands, the next mountain to the west. This ski area - the one that was so popular during that recent storm - is utterly free of amenities and charm, especially now as a massive construction project seeks to upgrade its offerings. But if you pick your way through the heavy equipment, the temporary trailers and the piles of building material, you'll find skiing that will put your athleticism to a severe test.

``It tends to be more locals,'' said Newton Bartley, director of Aspen Skiing Co.'s on-mountain ambassador program. ``Fantastic skiing and great views. It's just a very unique experience.''

The mountain also features competitive races (slalom, giant slalom, downhill) every Saturday - kind of a winter-sports equivalent to your municipal basketball league. Locals dominate the entry lists, but anyone can enter. Although this year's racing season is winding down, schedules for next winter are available. (Information: Scott Nichols, director of racing, 970-544-3005.)

Aspen Mountain shouldn't be ruled entirely out of your plans, however. Because of its break-your-neck runs, it tends to weed out the faint of heart. And if you abhor snowboarders, this is the place for you: They're forbidden on this hill.

``I'm glad they do that,'' said Tom Fisher, a second-grade teacher in the Aspen schools who has lived here 25 years. ``Snowboards tend to leave a deeper groove, and it's difficult for a snowboarder to keep a nice, narrow line, so it chews up the powder.

``For a skier, I can't imagine a better place. There are all sorts of nooks and crannies on this mountain.''

Black diamond in the rough

Buttermilk got its name in the previous century, either because a logger liked to bring a pail of the stuff up the mountain with his lunch or because the road was so rough it was believed capable of turning milk to butter on the wagon ride down.

Still, the ``buh'' sound at the beginning of the word is a phonetic match to bunny, and the mountain is considered the exclusive domain of only the most terrified novices.

Don't dismiss it entirely if you're an accomplished skier, though, especially if you're looking for uncrowded terrain. Off the east side of the mountain, in the area known as Tiehack, there are advanced runs. Seven of them. And they are not heavily traveled.

At the top of the main lift, most everybody will go right, seeking the gentle slopes of the green and blue runs. Go left.

In tribute

The shrines have sprung up in recent years. No one has made a big fuss over their establishment, or even taken credit for them. In select glades on Aspen Mountain, fans of various bygone entertainers simply have begun tacking up pictures, letters, memorabilia, CDs.

There are secluded mountain shrines honoring Elvis Presley, John Denver, Jerry Garcia and Liberace. (Another site, honoring Marilyn Monroe, was established a few years ago, but it since has vanished without explanation.)

No signs mark the way to these places of celebrity worship. Nor are they marked on ski maps of the mountain. And, if specific directions were given here, the Aspen locals would be livid.

So, if you're interested in stopping by one of them, just ask around. One hint: Bell Mountain.

Parking solution

Aspen officials would like nothing more than to see their free shuttles be the sole mode of transportation here. That much is evident in the fact that there is metered parking throughout the town - but a strict two-hour limit is maintained. Doesn't allow much time for a ski outing.

One exasperated visitor, encountered at the base of Aspen Mountain, said he'd given up and just parked his car at the curb for the day. The anticipated ticket, he grumbled, would be ``the price for skiing at Aspen.''

The shuttle, which services all four mountains, is extraordinarily convenient, but if you simply must have your car (perhaps to maintain a link with your Southern California roots), here is a suggestion.

On a frontage road just east of the entrance to the airport there is a kiosk, and if you have three or more people in your car, they'll give you a free high-occupancy-vehicle pass. Hang it from the rear-view mirror and you can park in any nonmetered area in town. All day. For no charge.

(The revelation of that information here probably will cause Aspen city fathers to weep.)

Inexpensive eats

For many Aspen residents, a simple code protects the wallet: breakfast and lunch out, dinner in.

There are two excellent, reasonably priced breakfast options in town, both of which crawl with locals just before the lifts open at 9 a.m.

Main Street Bakery and Cafe is so unpretentious, the proprietors are likely to seat your small party at a big table - then ask you to share it with the next people in the door.

The Wienerstube Restaurant has a sunny atrium interior that is as inviting as its exterior is bland. If you get there before 8 a.m., you'll be rewarded with a $3 special that includes eggs, hash browns and toast or pancakes.

As for lunch during a day of skiing, it's probably wise to avoid most of the dozen on-mountain restaurants that pepper the four ski areas. The Aspen Skiing Co. systematically has been taking them over as the leases of the private operators have come up for renewal, and the already high prices - for largely unexceptional food - are expected to soar even more.

The Sundeck at the top of Aspen Mountain, for example, might be a good place to recline in a deck chair, catch some rays and gaze at Cathedral and Hayden peaks to the south, but don't get thirsty. Even a pint of bottled water here will cost you $2.75.

A better option is to pack a lunch and carry it to some secluded, spectacular overlook on the mountain. Even the Aspen Skiing Co. can't charge extra for these views - unless you assume they've been factored into the daily lift-ticket price of $63.

A couple of lunch counters in town assemble tasty sandwiches to go: In & Out House (not to be confused with the hamburger stand) and Johnny McGuire's Deli.

Most people on vacation, however, don't want to spend the early evening bent over a condo stove. For dinner out that won't bust a budgevit, try any of these delightful locals' haunts: The Mother Lode (old miner's shack-type building, emphasis on pasta and seafood), the Steak Pit, Skiers Chalet (more steak), La Cocina (a bustling place; inexpensive Mexican food), Little Annie's, and Cooper Street Bar & Restaurant (which is actually on Cooper Avenue).

As for an after-ski adult beverage, skip Planet Hollywood and savor instead the simplicity and rich history of the bar at the Hotel Jerome. (If you call it the J-Bar, they'll think you're a permanent resident.)

Bargain hunting

Got the shopping bug? Uh-oh, that's a perilous affliction in this town.

Here's a reasonable way to indulge it, though. Believe it or not, there are two second-hand clothing stores in Aspen: Gracy's and Susie's. At both, wealthy visitors drop off clothing for consignment sale - lest they suffer the appalling scandal of being seen in the same garment more than twice.

You'll find sweaters, ski suits, evening gowns, furs - all at about half of the retail price. Inherent risk: As you walk through town, snobs might point at you and snicker when they recognize their castoffs.

On a recent visit to Gracy's, a full-length women's raccoon coat, made by Italian furrier Fendi, was priced at $2,000. A nondesigner full-length coat, lined with mink, was $1,500. A few blocks away, at the Fendi store itself, the general price range for furs was $13,000 to $45,000.

Sunday drive

A beautiful, pastoral country road this close to the condo clusters and crowded village streets of a major ski area?

It's true. Owl Creek Road generally is used only by residents seeking a shortcut between Aspen and Snowmass Village. Probably because it isn't paved. But if you don't mind a little mud, and if you pretend you didn't read your rental-car agreement closely, it is extremely rewarding.

The road forks off Highway 82 just east of the airport and winds through horse farms and snow-covered fields, offering a glimpse of what this area looked like a half-cevintury ago, before people discovered the exhilaration of sliding down mountains on twin boards.

Stay alert for wildlife.

Fitness alternative

Forget the mechanical stair steps, or the treadmill, or whatever other cardio equipment the spa at your Aspen lodgings offers.

Many area residents prefer a workout that is just as vigorous and infinitely more scenic. Rent a pair of snowshoes and walk up the face of Buttermilk Mountain early in the morning, before the lift opens. Maintain a measured pace, rest occasionally and carry water, though: The base of that mountain is at about 8,000 feet, the east summit (where three lifts converge) is at 9,720.

Don't worry about beating up your knees on the descent. The lift ride down is free for anyone who has climbed to the top.

``A lady I know tried every health club in the world,'' said Greg Long, a 22-year resident who operates a window-washing business in Snowmass. ``She told me, `I didn't lose any weight until I started walking up the mountain.' ''

Moonlight madness

This recreation option is included here only for a lark; it might be foolhardy to avail yourself of it.

But some locals delight in carefully tracking the cycles of the moon, then sneaking down a run in the middle of the night when the light is at its zenith. Often, a two-car shuttle (one at the base of the mountain, the other at a ski-in, ski-out dwelling up the slope) is employed.

Given the deaths and mishaps that have occurred in broad daylight at ski areas of late, it seems inconceivable that someone would be drawn to anything like this, but rebellion and danger can be intoxicating lures.

With a chuckle, Long recalled one spring evening a few years back when he and his wife were out walking their dogs on a Snowmass ski run called Adams Avenue. Whoosh! A plastic toboggan came flying down the hill, piloted by a group of kids. The turns were being negotiated only through a mad scrambling of arms and legs.

``They must have been going 60 vimph,'' said Long. ``The run goes over three bridges, and they got air on each one.''

It was a suicidal stunt, but at least there was no danger whatsoever of hitting a tourist. There wasn't a single one in sight.

This was purely insiders' frolic.

MORE SNOW AT ASPEN, VAIL

As the ski season enters its final month, the Colorado resorts of Vail and Aspen continue to show signs of recovery from their early-season doldrums.

Entering the weekend, Vail reported that it had received nearly 30 inches of new snow over the previous two weeks. Aspen's snowfall of late has been less robust - 8 to 10 inches in its last storm of Feb. 21-22 - but it reported excellent skiing conditions.

Each resort is offering packed powder on a 4-foot base at midmountain, about 5 feet at the top.

The Winter X Games aren't going anywhere anytime soon.

Four years after first bringing its high-flying sports carnival to Buttermilk Mountain, ESPN on Friday announced it has reached an agreement with the Aspen Skiing Co. to keep the Winter X Games in Aspen through 2010.

The deal will make Aspen the longest-tenured venue for any X Games event.

Last spring, ESPN signed a five-year agreement to keep the Summer X Games in Los Angeles through 2009.

"It's an absolute no-brainer. If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it," said Selema Masekela, the on-air host of both the summer and winter X Games. "Aspen is one of the best cities in the world, and it's a hotbed of local skiing and snowboarding talent. I'm beyond thrilled. I don't want to go anywhere else."

Since it operates four mountains in the area, Aspen Skiing Co. is able to allow ESPN to take over Buttermilk Mountain for five days of skiing, snowboarding, motorcycling and snowmobile competition.

The action is a boon to Aspen's economy and has helped the town overcome its reputation as a place where only the aging rich visit to boast about their private jets, monster homes and wine- and-sushi parties.

"When you asked people around the world what they thought of when they heard the word 'Aspen,' it didn't always used to be X Games. Other words came to mind," said Aspen Skiing Co. Senior Vice President David Perry.

The X Games brings a young-at-heart energy that caters to an audience more interested in tattoos and nipple rings than fur coats and face-lifts. Many of the athletes and spectators have never even heard of John Denver, let alone know that the late musician once was one of Aspen's most famous residents.

Thanks to the X Games, Aspen is reaching a new Rocky Mountain high.

"I love the X Games, Aspen loves the X Games and it's a great event for this community," said Mayor Helen Kalin Klanderud. "It really takes us into the future."

In the beginning, the X Games rotated venues. The inaugural event in 1997 was held at Snow Summit Mountain Resort, Calif., then moved to Crested Butte for two years. After that, it moved east to Mount Snow, Vt., in 2000 and 2001.

"Logistically and spirit-wise it wasn't a festival like this is," Masekela said of the other Winter X Games locales he has worked at or visited.

Since the Winter X Games came to Aspen in 2002, the event has grown by leaps and bounds. Attendance has increased 91 percent, free rock 'n' roll and hip-hop concerts have been added, and the games are broadcast live on ESPN and ABC, attracting larger television audiences each year.

Last year an average of 677,000 households watched the events, up 23 percent compared with the year before.

Chris Stiepock, general manager of the X Games, said ski resorts from California, Canada and even Europe were attempting to lure the event out of Aspen.

While most of the athletes seemed to welcome ESPN's decision to stay put, others noted that the X Games was just as exciting when it was a vagabond event.

"I can see both sides of the decision," said snowboarder Tricia Byrnes, who recently moved to Aspen from Connecticut. "Aspen is the perfect location because Buttermilk is self-contained and the airport is right there. So I think it's great it is staying here for a while. But sometimes it's nice to switch it up, too."

The agreement means the Winter X Games will remain in Aspen for nine consecutive years.

"I'd be bummed if it left. It's so great to have all these elite athletes in Aspen," said Asia Jenkins, an Aspen resident and Skier X competitor who injured her heel during training Friday and will not be able to race Sunday.

ETC.: Several big names have opted to pull out of the Winter X Games in order to stay healthy for the Winter Olympics in Turin, Italy, including Gretchen Bleiler and Hannah Teter.

The biggest name to stay on the sidelines is Vermont shredder Lindsey Jacobellis, who captured her third consecutive gold medal in Snowboarder X last year. During practice Friday, Jacobellis overshot a small jump and said she felt like she strained her knee. "In no way will this incident change my status for the 2006 Winter Olympics. I am still looking forward to realizing my Olympic dreams and will be riding strong in Torino," Jacobellis said. . . . Aspen skier Casey Puckett placed first in the Skier X men's qualifier and Vail's Eric Archer placed third. . . . Snowboard superstar Shaun White ranked fourth in the men's snowboard Slopestyle. . . . Basalt snowboarder Jason Smith came in third in the Snowboarder X qualifier. He will compete in the Olympics next month. . . . Big-mountain skier and X Games showman Tanner Hall will visit Jill Pisani's kindergarten class at Aspen Elementary School next week as a guest of 6-year-old Bridger Gile of Warren Miller movie fame.